45 Rugientes Pinot Noir

This has a lovely nose, showing floral red fruit with tight blackberries and elderberries. The medium- to full-bodied palate is austere with firm tannin structure that makes it more attractive and focused. Wonderful fruit. Drink or hold.

A well-knit version, with layers of orange peel, fresh cardamom and tea leaf to the fresh Rainier cherry and Santa Rosa plum core, which lengthens and finishes around mineral-tinged tannins. Drink now through 2034. 3,500 cases made, 364 cases imported.

A savory style, with dried herbs and loam up front that fold into pomegranate and red currant flavors, with a grip of stemmy tannins on the finish. Drink now. 1,100 cases made, 112 cases imported.